2015. augusztus 17., hétfő

Princess (help) line - How to cope with them?

Before we cut the fabric, just a little bit back to my Tea gown's tale:

You know me, how much I love to make dresses with stories behind. I had this fabric for ages, but not with a nice back story. Whoever worked in dressmaking industry knows that sometimes customers are disappearing and we stay unpaid with a dress to store or fabrics what we don't like. I made a dress, it's still with me, and I just had a feeling to wait for her before I cutted the rest of her fabrics. She never appeared again, so after almost 5 years, I decided to use this beautiful green brocade to forget this awkward story.

Those yummy fabrics

I only had 4.5 meters of it, what is made me a little headache, it's quite small to make a Historical dress, then, I remembered of this Oriental-style tea dress, so I thought, I will challenge myself with a new cutting and, work with small fabric.

I had an idea to save my dignity, also from an extant Worth design, and what a luck, I had a matching silk hiding in my wardrobe as well. So, that's how this challenge begin.

About the princess line:
Princess Alexandra
In this photo she reminds me of Sisi

I wasn't surprised, that it was also Our Master's invention. Worth introduced this new cut in the late 1870's. The conception was to show the women's curves without any distraction of crinolin or bustle. (...and here we are, the era natural-form dresses) It becomes very popular, not just for adults, young girls wore as well with a stash.
Worth named this cut after Princess Alexandra, who was famously elegant and a beauty of her age.

Very wow cutting, is anyone getting excited on the same level like me?
Look how amazing this pattern-matching at the front seam.
Truly amazing
Worth Wedding gown, 1896
Quite modern cutting, it looks very simililar
what we use nowadays.
Worth Bridesmaid dress, 1896

Dat A... I mean cuts :)

Let's see the description of my choice:

"Tea gown from Worth (12.12.1891)

This gown is a masterpiece, unique in design and in materials. It is a long flowing caftan of beige colored cloth, draped over a velvet gown which fits the slender figure with a seathl-like closeness. Velours frappé (stamped velvet) with maroon design on a lighter ground, is used for the front of the close gown; it is fitted by darts and extends far back on the sides, fastening invisibly on the left. The fronts frame the slight figure with wide revers of white plush; their fulness is narrowly massed on the shoulders, with ends carried thence to the middle of the back, and knotted there above full back breadhts that fall in Watteau-like pleats. A high collar has a velvet at the back, and is covered in front with a white lace extending lower in a pointed plastron. Deep cuffs of lace are on sleeves."

Side closure really caught my eyes, I never saw a full dress closed on the side, just only jackets.

"* 1870—1889: • Hooks and eyes or buttons run down the front of day dresses • Closures are often in back for evening dresses • Back lacing is still popular for evening gowns • Tapes sewn to the inside of bodices at the waist and closed by a hook and eye are common * 1890—1899: • Bodices fasten with hooks and eyes up the front, or in front and along the sides • Buttons are frequently used, especially for back closures • Bodices sometimes have linings with separate fastenings • Bodice and skirt usually hook together with large hook and eyes at the waistline"
From Vintage connection

Anyway, I'm not a huge fan of side closurings, so I just gone for a classical back lacing.

Second hardest thing was the pattern. I never used this line before, I had to see some referation before it, but I barely find. ( If it was so popular why nooooot? Maybe Worth kept locked in his desk :) )
My only one pattern of a Princess line dress, it has a front clousure
I had only one pattern to help me from Authentic Victorian Patterns book. It was more than nothing.

Third sweaty part of this dress was the amount of fabric. I spent a whole afternoon to figure out how I should cut it, finally, I had to put a little triangle of the end of the second side panel, as I saw from my extant skirt. So it was an authentic cheating :)

On the pattern, darts  seemed okay, but in reality was awful, anyway this cross and dot paper is very useful to make big patterns.

First version of the dress, darts are still awful, despite that I unfold the lower part of them
How surprising, the pattern didn't work with the dart, they looked awful, like to big C on the side of the dress, it was everything else rather to follow my shape. I pinned only the upper part of the darts, and I made the rest of the dress until I find a solution. Finally, I just did, what I learnt from my Master at home. Pin it on you, and just watch the dress, it will shows you where to pin. (Sounds like a quote from Sewing zen book lol :D )

Little not authentic trick to cope with annoying slippery fabric. I used interlinig ribbon to sew easier. Just iron on the edges of the back of fabric and enjoy easy work after :)

Use some silk organdi as a middle layer. It gives an extra support to the dress.

So I sew the first ones closer to each other and the seconds were looking to the sides. Actually it could be a french dart :) but it worked!

Nice fitting darts! They are really follow my body :)

After I had different ideas to make princess cutted dresses, but I will need more fabric to test them. One can be like a 18th century dress, secret lacing in the back. My other ide was to cut the dress half, and make a seamless top and circle skirt. Mmmm nice challenges for the future :)

If you look it closer, you can se that it has a cut
at the waist and a skirt is sewn there
This fabric... I could die for it. Don't be surprised, Worth dress :)

Tricky solution as well. I think they hide the seamlines behind of the decoration


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